Category Archives: Pet

Remove Pet Hairs

Here are some easy methods to remove the hairs of your pets on furniture and clothing.

  • Vacuum Cleaner

This is the most effective and handy technique. A suitable vacuum cleaner can cover and clean up a large piece of area. Using vacuum cleaner is in particular good for carpet, blinds and large couch. Many vacuum companies have come out with attachments to help suck up pet hairs from difficult areas such as carpet. You may use two special attachments to deal with larger flat surface e.g. carpet and then a sucking tube on gaps and hanging pieces such as curtain.

  • Rollers or Tape

This is probably the cheapest, simplest and yet effective method. It works exceptionally well for removing pet hairs from clothing where there is an uneven surface. Simply move the roller back and forth over the problem areas until all hairs have been picked up. Remember to peel off the piece when it is fully covered with hair. Then a fresh sticky piece will appear to work again.

Similar technique applies when you use packaging tape, duck tape or scotch tape. Wrap you hand with the non-sticky side toward your hand and the adhesive side face out. Brush your hand over the desired area and pick up the hairs thoroughly. However rollers and tape method may not work so well for larger piece of furniture like sofa and carpet. It can be a tiring job if you do so.

  • Lint Brush

Have you try to use a lint brush to remove the lint on your wool and woven jackets? They can be used in picking up pet hairs from your furniture as well. The key is to pull the brush in one single direction only. Do not move your brush back and forth. The reversal of direction will make the hair re-deposit onto the clothes again. Use lint brush on small furniture items such as chair and couches are good. However it is difficult to use between small gaps because of the flat surface of the lint brush. So you have to redo with a tape or vacuum cleaner to work deep inside small areas.

With all these methods to clean off pet hairs, the basic is that you can avoid the dropping of pet hairs. This depends on your training of the pets so they will not run around inside the house and shed hairs everywhere. Also regular hair combing helps to reduce the hairs from losing out.

Taking Care Of Iguana

There are many places online where one can find iguana care information. Here are some of the more common needs that will have to be met. Iguanas need attention and interaction from their owners. Reptiles do not want to be left alone in their cages all day. They do need interaction to stimulate their mind and remember that iguanas are basically still wild animals. They are not bread to be human friendly which makes the need to spend time with the pet necessary as it will take time to tame and train the reptile to accept human interaction.

Iguanas can grow up to six feet in length and they can also live for up to twenty years which makes iguanas life long pets. It is not an animal that can be gotten rid of just because one gets sick of caring for it, so if money is an issue in the household one may want to hold off on purchasing an iguana since they are somewhat costly to take care. Building an adequate habitat, buying supplies and food, plus veterinary care can all add up to an expensive bill. Since the iguana is considered an exotic animal not all vet clinics will care for and treat an illness. In keeping up with all of the iguana care information reading and watching videos on reptile care can give one a leg up on the current care. Iguanas need care from their owners just as much as a cat or dog. It is very important to love and protect your animal to increase its trust and connection with the owner.

One issue that seems to appear with new iguana owners is the lack of knowledge. These owners are naive when it comes to caring for the reptile needs. Education with various sources of iguana care information is the best solution to many iguana related problems. It is also important to seek out help when one needs it as reptiles cannot show when they are injured or sick until it is severe. Unlike other larger animals an iguana may be ill for days before it is noticed by an owner. Due to this it is necessary to contact a veterinarian or other professional as soon as an issue is noticed. Purchasing all of the top of the line items for the habitat is fine to make the appearance pleasant. It is not always necessary though. The need to be a hands on owner is much more important than anything. Spending time with the reptile will produce a happy iguana.

 

Awesome Lizard

If you are trying to get away from pets that leave behind swirls of fur on your carpet and grooming expenses, getting a leopard gecko is a great direction to go in. There are several facts that you must acknowledge.

  1. One of the best gecko facts is that these particular geckos have a voice! Although they are not able to speak, they have a bark that warns you when they are agitated. These geckos can become stressed and agitated for several different reasons. When a leopard gecko has reached his boiling point, it will bark, sending you a warning that they have had enough.
  2.  As far as these gecko facts are concerned, one of the coolest facts about these creatures is that they have eyelids! If you take notice, you will find that other types of geckos do not have eyelids. These particular geckos have the ability to blink and close their eyes while they are sleeping.
  3.  The leopard gecko has a defense mechanism that gives them a chance to survive. If at any time they are captured by a predator by the tail, their tail comes off, which will give them time to evade their predator. The tail will grow back, but it will not be as long as the original tail.
  4.  As you may have figured, these geckos are nocturnal animals. This means that they sleep and rest during the day and come out at night. During the night time, they hunt for food and are the most active. When the sun is about to come up and a new day begins, the leopard gecko will return to his cozy hiding spot where he will rest and sleep again until night falls.
  5. One of the greatest facts about these types of geckos that many people are not aware of is that these geckos are fond of more insects than just crickets. A leopard gecko’s diet consists of crickets, scorpions and even other lizards! If you are feeding a leopard gecko crickets, make sure that you coat the crickets with a calcium powder source. The calcium powder helps them grow and keeps them healthy.
  6.  Contrary to popular belief, a leopard gecko does not have sticky pads. This means that they are not able to stick to the sides of their tank or hang upside down. Instead, the leopard gecko have tiny claws that resemble hands.
  7.  Determining the sex of this type gecko is a lot easier than determining the sex of a human baby. What matters the most in this situation is the temperature. When the temperature in an incubator is set at or near 80°F, there is a great chance that the geckos will turn out to be female. When an incubator is set at 90°F, there is a great chance that these geckos will be mostly males.

Painted Turtles

The painted turtle (Chrysemys picta) is not your average aquatic turtle. This species has the largest range of any north American turtle, and can found in suitable habitats from the Atlantic to the Pacific coast of North America. It is also colorful, outgoing, moderately-sized, and very undemanding. Let’s take a closer look at painted turtles and see whether they are the right pet turtle for you.

Tank Setup

Tank setup for painted turtles generally follows the basic design already described. Like the red-eared slider, with which it is often confused, painted turtles are the quintessential basking-type turtle that inhabits ponds, lakes and lazy rivers, around which they spend a great deal of time soaking up the sun. If you’ve ever seen them in the wild, you will understand just how important these basking sites are. Juveniles and adults will often be piled up on one another in the choicest sunning spots, and long tanning lines of individuals will form on sufficiently thick tree branches. Consequently, you will need a good heat lamp or ceramic heater, and it is also a good idea to use a UV-B emitting bulb as well.

Feeding

Painted turtles will happily accept most turtle food. Like other basking species, they tend to start life as carnivores, eating insects, small fish, tadpoles, etc., and then move towards a more vegetable-based, omnivorous diet. Make sure to dust prepared foods with a high quality supplement. I have always used Rep-Cal for providing crucial vitamin D and calcium, and would not recommend any other. A failure to supplement foods with these vitamins is just asking for trouble, and is particularly damaging to young, growing turtles that are likely to manifest shell deformities as they mature.

Sexing

Young turtles are very difficult to sex, but as they grow males will show several differences. Males will tend to have larger front claws, a longer, thicker tail, and a more concave plastron (underside of shell) compared to the flat plastron of the female. Of course, the female will normally get significantly larger than the male as well.

Lifespan

Like most basking turtles, the painted variety is very long lived. The eastern subspecies is reported to live between 20 to 40 years, and mature in about 10 years. This is likely a very conservative estimate of this species lifespan in the wild. In captivity, a well cared for turtle should easily live for more than 20 years.

Painted Turtles as Pets – The Verdict

These are generally colorful and easy to please aquatic turtles that should thrive in a basic turtle tank setup provided they are given enough room. While all of the subspecies can be maintained in captivity, some of the subspecies adapted to the northern latitudes may have a tendency to go off feed in the winter, even if adequate water temperatures are maintained year-round. For this reason, the southern painted variety may be a more ideal choice as a pet, since it hails from a much warmer clime. In addition, as the smallest of the subspecies, it can be housed in slightly smaller enclosures.

 

Morphology of Snakes

  • Co-dominant: A visible mutation appears when a single gene in an allele is different than normal. Two different genes can bring a ‘super’ form of that gene which looks different than the single gene itself.
  • Dominant: When a single allele is different than the normal allele.
  • Het/Heterozygous: Has a gene inside of the snake that is not visible. Otherwise none as a recessive trait.
  • Homo/Homozygous: A matched pair of mutated genes
  • Recessive: The gene is present in the snake, but not visible, but can be passed down.

Snakes contain genes that are responsible for their colors and patterns. Each gene contains an allele from each parent of the snake. When bred, snakes combine their DNA/alleles into their babies. There are many different forms of ‘mutated’ alleles. These genes are not just present in the snake world, but in every species.

Since mutated alleles are more uncommon than normal alleles the snake with mutated alleles is usually more expensive. Many people spend thousands of dollars on obtaining the next created morph. When I think of the word morph, Ball Pythons come into mind. The market for Ball Pythons is extremely flooded with all sorts of morphs. Example: Albino, Axanthic, Banana, Clown, Pieds, Pastel etc. Of course there are other snake species that are well known for their wide range of morphs, corn snakes, king snakes, red tail boas, burmese pythons, and reticulated pythons.

Morphs may be awesome however some genes are weak and when bred together can produce unhealthy babies and kinked snakes. Always do your research before buying a snake. Example: The spider Ball Python is usually born with a ‘wobble’ due to the weak genes in its DNA, this gives the snake a neurological problem which causes it to bob it’s head all around when moving, sometimes it even affects its eating. Weak or damaged genes can also cause the female snakes to not be able to become gravid/they are infertile.

Horse Training Techniques

The Basic Facts You Need to Know Before Training a Young Horse

Though the natural horse training will require you to do almost nothing, it is still important to know about the basic things in this kind of drill. The natural training is suitable for young horses. When they reach 2 to 3 years, you can slowly teach them some basics. This is important because good timing and feel about the horses is also necessary. You can just leave your horse roaming the farm at first, but you can also conduct simple trainings for starters. Simply make sure to keep your training activities interesting and fun to do. Even if your horse is already undergoing training, it still needs to be close to its mother. This calms young horses down and makes them feel more at ease while in the training. And finally, when training your horse, explore which touches it doesn’t like and which touches it enjoys, this will help you figure out how to handle your horse better.

Natural Training Tricks and Techniques You Must Know for Young Horses

Horse training can mean a lot of things. But it is totally worthless if you know nothing about different tricks and techniques you could use. The length of your training session with your horse will be dependent on its age. If you are dealing with a younger horse, it is recommended that the session is shorter than the adult horses. You need to learn first the different methods of learning which are through making associations with uncontrollable factors and finally through punishment and reinforcement methods. And while the reward and punishment method is very effective, you have to weigh how much reward or punishment will be most effective to use. Too much reward will spoil your horse and too much punishment will lead to your horse’s pain, fear and frustration, and thus will suppress its learning capability.

Before you decide to leave your horse during training, learn as much as you can about your horse first. Ascertain your horse’s mood by looking at its movements. When its head is held up, it means that it is uptight. If its head is low, it means that your horse is relaxed. This will also be your telltale sign if your horse is ready to be trained. While it is an important rule to know strategies of handling your horse, it is also necessary that you keep your emotions in check. It is always best to not be frustrated when training, instead, be calm and patient. In time, you will find that your self-confidence radiates down from your body to your horse.

Prepare for a Horse Show

Getting your horse show ready

  • Once you know what shows you’re entering, practise for that event. Try lengthening and shortening stride so you can get the right distance between jumps, and always practise on fences slightly higher than those in the show. This way your horse should be calm and composed on the day. And similarly for dressage – you need to be confident that your horse can comfortably perform everything asked of them, so it’s a good idea to show them at one level lower than the level they perform at home.
  • During the winter months, like humans, horses can lose some fitness. Work on building it up again to get them back to their peak for show season.
  • Get grooming and trimming to make sure your horse looks his best.

Preparing for a show

Think about everything you’ll need for the show, for both you and your horse and make a list. If you’re staying overnight or longer you’ll need bedding, hay and grain for your horse as well as tack, grooming equipment, buckets, first aid equipment, paperwork etc.

With all the focus on getting your horse ready, it can be easy to forget that you need to get yourself ready too. Good quality, well-fitting show clothes will not only be comfortable, but also create a really good impression. If last years are looking a bit tired, consider investing in some new show attire. Mark Todd have a new Italian Collection, which is both stylish and designed with the practicalities of riding in mind, with breathable fabrics and machine washable jackets. It’s a good idea to take a spare set of show clothing if you can, just in case there are any issues on the day.

Of course the best way to keep your horse looking good for show season is to care for them well all year round. So keep up with medical checks and groom them daily, paying attention to their tail and mane to avoid knots and tangles. Bathe them the night before the show and braid them too, so they’re looking their best on the day.

 

Set Up Piranha Aquarium

Some planning and set-up is needed before you purchase your first piranha. Here is a list of general steps you will need to go through to set everything up:

1. Choose the location of the aquarium and set it up. If at all possible, choose a location that does not get direct sunlight because too much sunlight will affect the water chemistry and may also cause algae issues. Some people say that the aquarium should be located in a spot that does not have a lot of human traffic as well, since piranhas are skittish creatures and may be stressed by too much traffic.

2. Rinse all your decorations and accessories.

This is a very important step because it will help get rid of any dust from your new supplies. Rocks and gravel often contain a lot of dust which can make your water murky if you put them in right away. Some accessories may need to be soaked in water for a few minutes to get rid of all the air and/or tanic acids. For example, try to put a piece of driftwood in your aquarium without soaking it first and you will see it float to the top every time.

3. Rinse all the aquarium equipment then install them. Any part of your equipment (filters, power head, thermometer, etc.), that normally touch the water should also be rinsed. When you are done, install the equipment.

4. Again, make sure your aquarium is exactly where you want it. This is very important because the next step is where you fill it up with water and at that point it will be almost impossible to move.

5. Fill up the aquarium with water.

6. Dim the lighting. As I mentioned before, piranhas are not fans of bright lights. If your aquarium lighting is too bright, try wrapping them with electrical tape in a candy cane style. This should help.

7. Set up your filtration system. I’m not going to go into details because the instructions will depend on which one you buy, so please follow the instructions.

8. Set up the heater. Most of them are simple enough to set up, however, again you should follow the instructions. Set the temperature between 24 – 29 °C ( 75.2 – 84.2 °F ). Perfect temperature for most piranhas.

9. Test the water. Do NOT put any fish in your tank until this is done. You need to make sure that the water chemistry is just right before adding any fish. Recommended levels for most piranhas:

a. pH level should be between 6 – 7.5
b. Water hardness (dGH): 4 – 18 °N
c. Recommended water temperature: 24 – 29 °C ( 75.2 – 84.2 °F )

Steps to Making Your Aquarium Algae-Free

Algae can turn a pristine aquascape into a horrible eye-sore in a matter of days. In ponds, algae can suffocate the fish overnight or kill fish when the bloom crashes. Algal overgrowth can be due to a variety of reasons. It could be from poor environmental conditions or incorrect lighting. Each sort of algae tells a different story on how they became established. Control methods will depend on the type of algae and it may be as simple as performing water changes more frequently, using a suitable lighting type, altering the photoperiod, decreasing the amount fed or introducing more aquatic plants to altering the pH, water hardness, using anti-algal chemicals and installing a UV-clarifier. The combinations are enormous!

1. Carry out very regular partial water changes (30%) every 14 days.

2. Reduce the stocking density of your aquarium.

3. Don’t over-feed

4. As a rule of thumb, the stomach of a fish is approximately the size of its eye and so this is about as much as they should be fed.

5. Use white daylight bulbs:

Light that peaks at the blue and red spectrum are best for photosynthesis, but does not differentiate between algae and plant. By using plain white light, you are making it more difficult for the algae (and plants) to make their food.

6. Decrease the photoperiod:

*Having light available for a shorter period will make it more difficult for algae to make their food and multiply.

7. If the tank receives sunlight, reposition the tank or shade it.

*Warning, it is dangerous to move a filled tank.

8. Add some water plants to your aquarium:

*Aquatic plants will compete with the algae for nutrients and light;

9. Introduce an algae eating fish that is suitable for your set-up:

*Examples would include: bristle nose catfish, Chinese algae eater.

10. You may wish to install a UV-clarifier or proceed with chemical or other biological treatments.

*Note that chemicals should never be the sole treatment. They should be used only after or in conjunction with management strategies as outlined.

Snails in the Aquarium

Many hobbyists love to have snails in their aquarium. Snails appear gentle and calm. Their slow and graceful movement has a soothing effect. Many snails are placed in the aquarium deliberately as part of the display. However, too often, a small number of snails can lead to a full blown infestation. Snails usually eat detritus, algae and other organic matter. Sometimes, though, they can attack aquarium plants. A huge number of snails on everything from plants to aquarium walls to the gravel and the filters can affect the aesthetics of the aquarium.

The Snail becomes a pest which needs to be controlled. There are different ways of controlling snails. Commercial pesticides for Snails available at your petshop can be used. However, these pesticides tend to damage the beneficial bacterial in the aquarium affecting the biological filtration. There are mechanical snails traps which lure the snails into an enclosure form which they cannot escape. The snails can then be discarded. Another method is the use of snail eating fish such as loaches and puffer fish. These fish target snails and can be effective, particularly in large aquariums.

Preventing Snail infestation

  • Avoid Snails

It is best to avoid snails. Many people put snails in the aquarium as part of the display. However, the snails can quickly turn into pests.

  • Disinfect new additions such as plants and accessories

The most common way snails enter aquariums is as eggs in plants. If the aquarium plant was previously in a tank with snails. There are chances that there are eggs in it. The best way is to disinfect the plants by immersing them in a solution of Potassium Permanganate for half and hour. Rinse the plants thoroughly with freshwater before putting them in the tank.

Snails can be delightful additions to your tank. But sometimes, unwanted species or an increase in the population can wreak havoc on the tank system particularly the plants. There are chemicals which can control the snail population. However, they destroy the good nitrifying bacteria as well, damaging the biological filtration. Hence, these should be used only as a last resort.

Snails reproduce very fast and hence their population needs to be monitored and kept in check. When the population explodes, they may have to be removed. One easy way is to boil a lettuce leaf and immerse it in the substrate and leave it overnight. The next morning, you will find that the snails have climbed on to the leaf to eat it. Remove the lettuce leaf and the sails and throw it away. Repeat this for many days till the problem is under control.